The Holly Hotel on Battle Alley is the heart of the town. Built in 1891, it survived two devastating fires (in 1913 and 1978) and now does triple duty as a fine-dining restaurant, basement comedy club, and one of the most reliably haunted buildings in Michigan. Staff and guests over the decades have reported the smell of cigar smoke, doors that won't stay shut, and a piano that plays itself.
Dinner upstairs is white-tablecloth and a little fussy; the menu runs to filet mignon, lobster bisque, and an extensive wine list. The Comedy Castle in the basement is the more affordable draw, hosting both local and touring stand-ups on weekend nights. Even if you do not eat or drink there, walk past for the Victorian façade and the wrought-iron Battle Alley sign.