Traverse City's high season runs from late June through August, when the bay warms up enough for swimming, the cherries ripen, and the National Cherry Festival transforms the downtown. This is also when hotels are most expensive and the restaurants are at their liveliest. Book accommodation well in advance for July, especially during the Cherry Festival and the Film Festival.
Late May and early June is an excellent alternative: the orchards are in blossom, the wineries are open but not crowded, and prices are lower. The autumn color in the surrounding forests, typically peaking in early October, draws its own crowds but the vibe is considerably calmer. Winter brings cross-country skiing and snowshoeing at several area resorts, and the town takes on a quieter, more local character.