Rio Scenarium is the most famous of Lapa's samba houses, set in a converted antiques warehouse on Rua do Lavradio whose three floors are crammed with vintage props, old clocks, mannequins, and bric-a-brac collected over decades. Live bands play samba, choro, and forró most nights to a mixed crowd of Cariocas and visitors who dance between the balconies overlooking the main stage.
It can get busy and touristy at weekends, so come earlier in the week or early in the evening for a more relaxed feel. Either way it is a reliable, atmospheric introduction to live samba in Lapa — and the building alone, packed floor to ceiling with curiosities, is worth the visit.