Ilhabela has 41 named beaches, but the island divides neatly into two very different coastlines. The western shore facing the mainland channel is calm and sheltered — this is where the town sits, the ferry arrives, and most infrastructure exists. Beaches like Jabaquara and Perequê are easy to reach by bus or car, and their gentle waters are good for families. Further south on the same coast, Praia do Curral is a favourite of both locals and visitors, with good waves and a more laid-back feel.
The eastern coast is another world. Facing open ocean with no shelter from the Atlantic swell, these beaches are wild, wind-scoured, and often deserted. Getting there is part of the experience: you need a 4WD vehicle, a boat, or your own legs. Praia de Castelhanos is the most visited of the east-coast beaches, shaped like a heart when seen from the hillside viewpoint above it, with a small resident caiçara community and simple restaurants. The surf can be powerful, which draws experienced surfers. At the far south of the island, Praia do Bonete is accessible only by a 13-kilometre trail or by sea, and its isolation has helped preserve the traditional fishing community there — The Guardian once named it one of the ten most beautiful beaches in Brazil.