Vila do Abraão is the only real settlement on Ilha Grande, sitting on a long sandy bay on the island's north coast. About 3,000 people live here year-round, and several times that many pour through during the peak summer months. Despite the foot traffic, Abraão has held onto its low-rise, low-key character: no buildings taller than three storeys, no chain stores, no car horns.
The waterfront is the main drag, a long stretch of pousadas and seafood restaurants facing the boats. Behind it, narrow sand streets lead inland past small bakeries, dive shops, and the church of São Sebastião, which dates from 1903 and is one of the oldest buildings on the island. Most visitors use Abraão purely as a base, but a quiet evening drink on the beach watching the lights come on across the bay is one of the genuine pleasures of being here.