The Gonzaga seafront has the densest concentration of bars in the city — beach-front kiosks selling cold beer and caipirinhas from late morning into the small hours, plus a couple of more substantial establishments. Cervejaria do Gonzaga and the various branches of Empório do Chopp are reliable bets.
For something with more local flavour, the streets a couple of blocks inland from the beach have informal botecos (bars) where locals drink. In the historic centre, a handful of restored mansions have been turned into restaurant-bars with live samba and choro on weekends.