The best cooking in San Pedro, and the only place in town where the local ingredients are treated as ingredients rather than as decoration. The kitchen works from Mapuche technique and Atacameño produce — llama, quinoa, chañar, rica-rica, the chaqueña potatoes from the villages up the salar — and turns out things like llama confit and quinoa risotto without any of the ceremonial flourishes that usually come with that description.
It is small. A dozen tables in a room with painted murals, on Domingo Atienza a few blocks from the plaza, which is far enough off Caracoles that you have to be looking for it. Reserve, and reserve a day ahead in high season — walking in and getting a table is unlikely.
It is not cheap by Chilean standards, though it is not extravagant either, and it is the one meal here that is worth planning around rather than falling into. Lunch and dinner sittings, closed Sunday evenings.