Nights in San Pedro are cold — the town sits at 2,400 metres in a desert, and the temperature falls away the moment the sun goes — so the good places here are the ones with a fire in the middle of them. That is most of them. The other thing shaping the evening is that half the town has to be awake at four in the morning, which keeps things earlier and more civilised than the volume of backpackers would suggest.
Local craft beer and the desert herbs — rica-rica in particular — turn up in both the beer and the pisco sours, and are worth ordering at least once.