The town brewery, a few streets back from Caracoles and quieter for it. The range is the usual craft spread — a golden, a pale ale, a stout — but the ones to order are the beers brewed with local plants, rica-rica and chañar among them, which give a herbal edge you will not find in a Santiago supermarket.
The setting is a courtyard with heaters and long tables, and it fills with a mix of travellers and people who actually work here, which is a better ratio than most places on the main street manage. Tastings of the full range come in flights if you want to work out which one you like.
It is a short walk from the plaza and worth the two minutes. Cash and cards both fine.