One of the oldest restaurants on Caracoles and still one of the better ones. Adobe walls, a fire going in the middle of the room, and a band most evenings playing charango and quena to a room of people who have been awake since four that morning. The food is Chilean rather than experimental — good steaks, pastel de choclo, a decent pisco sour — and the portions assume you have spent the day at altitude.
The music is the reason to come rather than a distraction from the meal, and it starts around nine. Earlier in the evening it is a quiet place to eat.
Prices are San Pedro prices, meaning higher than anywhere else in northern Chile, but the value here is fair. If you want the same atmosphere for less, the small cocinerías on the side streets north of the plaza do a fixed-price lunch for a fraction of it.