The good Cartagena walking tours, which means the ones that leave the walls: the Mercado Bazurto tour into the city's real market, a street-food walk, a street-art walk, and a day out to San Basilio de Palenque, the town founded by escaped slaves that still speaks its own creole.
They also broker the boat days — Rosario islands, the mud volcano and mangroves, La Boquilla — and a chiva bus if you want the loud version.
No street address anywhere on the site; everything runs through WhatsApp and the booking form.