Cartagena de Indias (pop. 888,000) is Colombia's most visited city and one of the finest colonial towns in the Americas. It divides neatly into two parts: the walled Ciudad Antigua, a UNESCO World Heritage Site of cobbled streets, baroque churches, and colourful balconied houses, and the modern beach resort of Bocagrande to the south, all high-rise hotels and Caribbean sand. A third district worth knowing is Getsemaní, just outside the walls, which has become the city's most interesting neighbourhood for nightlife and street art.
The Spanish built the walls after Francis Drake sacked the city in 1586 and kept building them for two more centuries. They were never breached. Within the walls, the Cathedral and Palace of the Inquisition face Plaza de Bolívar, and the Castillo de San Felipe watches over the city from a hilltop. The Convento de la Popa on the highest point offers the best panoramic views.
Beyond the city, the Islas del Rosario archipelago offers excellent snorkelling and deserted Caribbean beaches. Playa Blanca on Isla Barú is the finest beach within easy reach. The Volcán del Totumo mud baths make for an odd but popular half-day trip.
From Cartagena you can travel on to Cali, Medellín, Santa Marta — from where you can visit the Ciudad Perdida of the Tayrona — or to Bogotá.