Iglesia de San Francisco

The Iglesia de San Francisco is Honda's principal colonial church, a solid whitewashed structure on a quiet street a block from the main plaza. Like many colonial churches in provincial Colombian towns, it wears its age visibly: the walls are thick and slightly uneven, the bell tower is a little lopsided, and the interior has the cool, dim quality that comes from walls half a metre deep.

Inside, the retablos — the carved and gilded altar screens — are the main draw. They show the Franciscan taste for elaborate decoration within a spare architectural frame. Mass is still celebrated here regularly, and the church is most atmospheric in the early morning when light comes in at a low angle through the side windows. If the main doors are closed, try the side entrance on the left — it is usually unlocked during the day.

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A story
The Franciscans were among the first religious orders to establish themselves in Honda, arriving in the sixteenth century alongside the Spanish settlers who recognised the strategic value of the river crossing. San Francisco was built to serve both the permanent population and the constant flow of travellers and merchants passing through — it saw more of colonial Colombia's commerce and drama than almost any other church outside the major cities.

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