The Catedral de Santa Inés stands on the historic Plaza Bolívar in the heart of the old town. The present building is a 20th-century reconstruction — repeated earthquakes destroyed every earlier version — and although it lacks the layered patina of older South American cathedrals, the twin white towers and the modest baroque facade are pleasing.
The square in front is the natural meeting place of the city. Benches under the trees fill up in the late afternoon, and there is usually somebody selling cold drinks or roasted nuts. It is one of the best places to feel the rhythm of small-town Venezuelan life.