Maison Francisco de Souza (Maison du Brésil)

Compound of the Brazilian slave trader who became viceroy of Whydah

A sprawling family compound in the centre of town, partially restored as a small museum. Bruce Chatwin's The Viceroy of Ouidah — and Werner Herzog's film Cobra Verde — fictionalised de Souza's life, and the house is essentially what they describe: a thick-walled colonial residence, family chapels, courtyards, slave-trading offices.

Visits are by arrangement with the family. A member usually shows visitors through; tip generously. The compound is also a working community: many of de Souza's descendants live and worship here, and the family chapel is still in use.

things to do sight
A story
Francisco Félix de Souza arrived in Ouidah from Bahia around 1800 and became the most powerful slave trader on the coast. The king of Dahomey named him *chacha* — viceroy — and he kept the title until his death in 1849, by which point he had fathered an estimated 100 children and built a personal compound that occupies a significant chunk of the town. His descendants still live there.