The small palm-shaded plaza in the middle of town. Nothing much happens during the day, but in the evening it fills up: kids playing, old men talking politics on the benches, families wandering through after dinner. A couple of bars open onto the square — Café Central is the long-running fixture for a beer or a glass of grogue.
It's the kind of place where you'll bump into the same people you saw on the boat from São Vicente, and where the rhythm of small-town Cape Verde becomes obvious. Stay an hour. Stay two.