Egyptian food is hearty, cheap, and delicious -- built on beans, bread, and vegetables, with grilled meats for those who want them. It is not a cuisine that gets much international attention, which is a shame, because it is one of the most satisfying street food cultures in the world.
Koshari is the national dish: a carb-loaded bowl of rice, macaroni, lentils, and chickpeas topped with crispy fried onions and a tangy tomato-vinegar sauce. Every neighborhood has a koshari shop and a plate costs almost nothing. It is filling, vegetarian, and strangely addictive. Abou Tarek in downtown Cairo is the most famous, but any busy local place will do the job.
Ful medames -- slow-cooked fava beans mashed with olive oil, lemon, and cumin -- is what Egyptians eat for breakfast, and have been eating since pharaonic times. It comes with fresh baladi bread (a soft, puffy flatbread baked in wood-fired ovens) and often alongside ta'ameya, the Egyptian version of falafel. Unlike the chickpea falafel of the Levant, Egyptian ta'ameya is made from fava beans and fresh herbs, making it lighter and greener. A ful and ta'ameya sandwich from a street cart is one of the best breakfasts in the world for under a dollar.
Shawarma (spit-roasted meat in flatbread) and kofta (spiced ground meat on skewers) are everywhere. Egyptian grilled chicken, marinated and charcoal-roasted, is simple and excellent -- look for places with a line of locals. Hawawshi is a uniquely Egyptian street food: spiced minced meat stuffed into bread dough and baked until crispy.
For something sweet, kunafa is a pastry of shredded filo dough layered with cream or cheese and soaked in sugar syrup -- warm and indulgent. Um ali is a bread pudding made with puff pastry, milk, nuts, and raisins, served warm. Both are rich enough to share.
Egyptian tea (shai) is black, strong, and served very sweet in small glasses. It is offered everywhere -- in shops, offices, and homes -- and refusing it is almost rude. Mint tea is common too. Karkade, a deep red drink made from dried hibiscus flowers, is served hot in winter and cold in summer and is refreshing either way. Fresh juice stands are on every corner: mango, guava, sugarcane, and strawberry are the staples, made to order for a few pounds.
Coffee in Egypt means Turkish coffee -- thick, strong, served in tiny cups. Ask for it "sada" (plain), "mazbut" (medium sweet), or "ziyada" (extra sweet). Western-style coffee shops exist in Cairo and Alexandria but are not the traditional experience.
Alcohol is available in Egypt, unlike some neighboring countries. Stella is the local beer (not the Belgian one -- Egyptian Stella has been brewed since 1897). Wine from Egyptian vineyards is improving but still inconsistent. Hotels, upscale restaurants, and dedicated liquor stores carry a full range. In conservative areas and during Ramadan, alcohol is less visible.