North of the cathedral and east of the great mosque, Asmara's central market spreads through a warren of streets and small squares. It is divided informally by trade: grain in one lane, spices in another, vegetables and fruit nearer the mosque, baskets and ceramics behind the next corner. The gold and silver souks occupy a covered passage between the main mosque and the Government Administration Center.
Mornings are best — by midday many stalls are packing up. The atmosphere is friendly and unhurried. Bring small denomination Eritrean nakfa; tourists are charged the same as locals, more or less, and bargaining is gentle.