Banjul

Compact Gambian capital on St Mary's Island, with Albert Market and a working riverfront at its core.

Banjul is The Gambia's capital, though it barely feels like one. Situated on St Mary's Island at the mouth of the Gambia River, it was founded by the British in 1816 as a trading post and has never grown into a big city. The population is small -- most of the urban sprawl has moved to neighbouring Serekunda and the coastal resort towns. What Banjul offers is a compact, walkable centre with genuine West African character.

The Albert Market is the heart of the city -- a sprawling, chaotic covered market selling everything from fabrics and tailored clothing to spices, crafts, and electronics. It is noisy, colourful, and worth an hour of browsing. Nearby, the waterfront area around the old harbour has views across the river and the activity of the fishing boats.

The National Museum of The Gambia, on Independence Drive, has a modest but interesting collection covering the country's history, ethnography, and the slave trade. The African Heritage Museum offers rotating exhibitions of contemporary local art, with pieces available for purchase. Arch 22, the large gateway marking the entrance to the city, has a small museum and observation deck.

Banjul is well connected to the rest of the country. Bush taxis and minibuses depart from the main station for destinations across the south bank. The Barra ferry runs from the north bank terminal -- it takes about 35 minutes and is the gateway for trips to Juffure and the north side of the river. Banjul International Airport is about 24 kilometres south, closer to the resort areas than to the city itself.

The city is quiet by African capital standards. Most visitors use it as a day trip from the coast rather than a base. The beaches and nightlife are in Kololi and Bakau, not here. But for markets, history, and a sense of the real Gambia away from the tourist strip, Banjul rewards a visit.

Guide

Day Trips

Banjul itself is small and can be seen in half a day, but it makes a useful starting point for excursions along the coast and upriver.

Bakau, Fajara, Kotu and Kololi

The main beach resort strip runs about 30 kilometres south of Banjul along the Atlantic coast. Bakau has the crocodile pool and the fish market, Fajara has upmarket restaurants and a golf course, Kotu has a quieter beach and excellent birdwatching along Kotu Stream, and Kololi has the liveliest bar and restaurant scene. Yellow town taxis or minibuses will get you there cheaply. Tourist taxis are also available for a fixed fare.

Juffure and Kunta Kinteh Island

The most popular day trip in The Gambia. Cross the river by ferry to Barra, then travel overland to Juffure, the village from Alex Haley's Roots, and take a boat to the UNESCO-listed Kunta Kinteh Island. Organised river excursions from the coast combine the boat trip, the island, and the village in a full day. The history is powerful and the river scenery is beautiful.

Abuko Nature Reserve

A compact but species-rich reserve about 25 minutes from the coast. Over 270 bird species have been recorded here, plus monkeys, crocodiles, and other wildlife. A local guide at the gate will help you spot birds you would otherwise miss. It is an easy half-day trip.

Jinack Island and Niumi National Park

For something more adventurous, cross to the north bank and head to Niumi National Park, which includes Jinack Island. The park has mangroves, tidal flats, and good birdwatching. Jinack Island has empty beaches and a castaway feel. Getting there involves a ferry and some rough road, so allow a full day.

Makasutu Culture Forest

A private reserve on a creek off the Gambia River, offering guided forest walks, river kayaking, and cultural demonstrations. It is well run, scenic, and gives a concentrated experience of Gambian nature and hospitality. Half-day and full-day trips run from the coast.

Guide

Eating Out

Banjul has a modest but genuine restaurant scene, centred on local Gambian cooking rather than the tourist fare that dominates the coastal resort strip. The city is a good place to eat cheaply and well if you know where to look.

Benachin is the most characteristic Gambian dish — rice cooked in a single pot with meat or fish, vegetables, and tomato paste, similar to West African jollof rice but with its own distinct flavour profile. It turns up on menus throughout the city. Domoda, a groundnut-based stew served over rice, is another staple, rich and filling and available at most local restaurants. Fish — grilled, fried, or in sauce — is excellent given the proximity to the river and the sea.

The best cheap eating is around the Albert Market and along Wellington Street, where small chop houses serve plates of rice and stew for a few dalasi. The Banjul Club on Cameron Street has a more formal restaurant atmosphere and is popular with government workers at lunchtime. For something lighter, fresh fruit is available throughout the day at the market, and Lebanese-run snack shops near Independence Drive do good sandwiches and pastries.

Guide

Getting There

Banjul sits on St Mary's Island at the mouth of the Gambia River. Most visitors arrive via Banjul International Airport (BJL), about 24 kilometres south of the city closer to the resort towns of Kololi and Kotu. From the airport, taxis to Banjul take around 30-40 minutes; agree on a fare before you get in, or use the official taxi rank at arrivals. Green tourist taxis and yellow town taxis both operate the route.

From the south bank of the river, Banjul is the terminus. From the north bank, the Barra Ferry is the main crossing — a 35-minute ride that runs throughout the day. The ferry can be crowded and sometimes unreliable; expect to wait. Shared taxis and minibuses depart from the main bus station for destinations along the south bank highway.

Most visitors base themselves in the resort towns rather than Banjul and make the capital a day trip. If you do stay in Banjul itself, accommodation is basic and limited in quantity.

Guide

Things to Do

Banjul is compact enough to cover on foot in a morning. The market, a couple of museums, and Arch 22 are the main draws — none far from each other in the small city centre.