Nzerekore is the largest city in Guinea's forested southeast, a region that feels quite different from the rest of the country. The landscape here is dense tropical forest and rolling hills, and the ethnic groups -- Manon, Kono, and Guerze -- have distinct cultures from the Malinke and Fulani of the north.
The town itself is a busy market center with a frontier feel. The Grand Marché draws traders from across the forest region and from Liberia and Ivory Coast. The main reason to come is access to Mount Nimba, the 1,752-meter peak on the border with Liberia and Ivory Coast. Mount Nimba is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of West Africa's most important ecological zones, home to endemic species including the viviparous Nimba toad and wild chimpanzees. The Diécké Forest Reserve to the south offers another window into the Upper Guinea forest ecosystem.
Getting to Nzerekore from Conakry is a serious undertaking -- the road is long and rough, especially south of Kissidougou. But the forest region rewards those who make the effort with some of the most spectacular and least-visited wilderness in West Africa.