Getting around Mauritania takes planning and patience. The country is large, roads are often poor, and there is essentially no public transport network outside the major towns.
The iron ore train
The ore train from Zouerate to Nouadhibou is the most famous way to travel in Mauritania. It runs once daily, covering 700 kilometres through the Sahara. There are two passenger cars (basic but functional) and the option to ride for free in an open ore wagon — cold at night, dirty, and unforgettable. The journey takes 12 to 20 hours. This is the main access route between Nouadhibou and the interior.
Bush taxis and minibuses
Between major towns — Nouakchott, Atar, Nouadhibou, Rosso, Kiffa, Nema — shared bush taxis (usually battered Mercedes saloons) and minibuses are the standard option. They leave when full. Journey times are long and roads can be rough. Expect delays.
4WD and guides
Outside the main road network, a four-wheel drive is essential. The pistes (desert tracks) require experience or a knowledgeable driver. For the Adrar region and anywhere beyond Nema, hiring a local guide with their own vehicle is strongly recommended. Tour operators in Atar can arrange this. Do not head into the open desert alone.
Driving yourself
Self-drive is possible for experienced off-road drivers with a 4WD and proper equipment (extra fuel, water, GPS, recovery gear). An international driving permit is required. Intercity driving at night is prohibited. Coastal tracks require checking tide tables — they can be impassable at high tide.