La Güera

A ghost town at the very southern tip of the Cap Blanc peninsula, on the border with Western Sahara. La Güera was a Spanish fishing settlement of perhaps a thousand inhabitants until the mid-1970s; the Polisario conflict and the redrawing of borders left it stranded, and it was finally abandoned in the 1990s.

What remains is a small grid of crumbling pastel-painted Spanish colonial buildings, half-buried by the advancing dunes. The setting — sand, ocean, and the bones of a town that no one will ever come back to — is haunting. Permits are sometimes required because of the border; ask in Nouadhibou before setting out.

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