The Atlantic-facing western shore of the Río de Oro Peninsula has empty beaches for kilometres. The ocean here is cold — the Canary Current brings cold water south along the African coast — and the surf is rough and unprotected. This is not swimming territory, but for walking on a completely empty beach with no one in sight for miles, it is hard to match.
Access requires your own vehicle or a hired taxi willing to take the sandy tracks. Bring water and food — there are no facilities. The wind is usually strong, which is what makes the lagoon side ideal for kitesurfing and the Atlantic side ideal for the particular pleasure of watching waves break on a desert shore.