The main draw is the landscape and the pace. Walk or ride a camel into the Erg Chebbi dunes directly from the village — the dunes are enormous, and the light at dawn and dusk is extraordinary. A stroll through the palm groves that fringe the village takes less than an hour but gives a sense of the place.
Sitting for tea — a proper Berber pot, sweet and heavily poured — with locals is an experience in itself. The Gnawa musicians in Khamlia are the real thing: if you stay overnight or arrange it in advance, an evening of live Gnawa music around a fire is one of the more memorable things you can do in southern Morocco.