The flat-topped hill rising south of town is what gives Zagora its name. The walk to the top takes about an hour and a half on a rough switchbacking track; you can drive most of the way and walk the last stretch if the heat puts you off. At the summit are the foundations of an Almoravid fort, the eleventh-century watchpost over the caravan route to Timbuktu.
Go for sunset. The Draa valley unspools below you, a narrow green ribbon of palms threading through red rock and brown plain, the river often dry but the trees somehow still green from the deep water table. Bring water — there is no shade — and a torch for the way down.