Tamegroute

17th-century library of illuminated manuscripts and a green-glazed pottery village

About 20 kilometres south of Zagora on the road to M'Hamid, Tamegroute is a small Saharan village built around the Zawiya Naciri, a Sufi religious complex founded in the seventeenth century. The complex is still active and only the library and the courtyard are open to non-Muslim visitors, but those alone are worth the trip.

A few hundred metres past the zawiya, the village's potters work in half-buried wood-fired kilns producing the famous Tamegroute green-glazed pottery — bowls, plates, tagines and vases in a colour that ranges from olive to a luminous emerald, depending on the firing. Prices are well below what you will pay in Marrakech, and you can watch the work from start to finish. A grand taxi from Zagora is the easiest way down; combine the trip with the dunes at Tinfou, a few kilometres further south.

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A story
The library of the Zawiya Naciri once held some forty thousand manuscripts, lent and copied across the western Islamic world. A few hundred remain on show, including a 13th-century Quran on gazelle skin and an algebra treatise written in saffron and gold. The pottery cooperative next door uses a distinctive copper-and-manganese glaze that produces the deep green found nowhere else in Morocco.

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