Niamey is the capital of Niger and its only real city, sprawling along a bend in the Niger River in the far west of the country. It is dusty, hot, and chaotic in the best possible way — a place where Tuareg, Songhai, Fulani, and Hausa traders all converge in open-air markets that are as much theatre as commerce.
The Grand Mosque, with its green-tiled minaret, dominates the skyline; you can usually visit if you ask permission first. The National Museum is one of the finest in West Africa, with cultural exhibits, local artifacts, and an artisans' cooperative where the jewelry is particularly fine and the prices, while firm, are reasonable. The museum grounds also house a small zoo, though the conditions are dispiriting.
Down by the river, the Corniche de Gamkalle is where Niamey comes alive in the evenings — open-air bars, cold beer, and a breeze off the Niger. The Franco-Nigerien Cultural Centre on Boulevard de la République hosts film screenings, live music, and theatre, and is well worth checking out. For something more adventurous, hire a pirogue and paddle out on the Niger to spot hippos in the river pools south of the city.