Somali food is simpler and less spiced than many of its East African neighbours, but the quality of the meat — particularly goat and camel — is excellent, and the portions are generous.
The staple is rice (bariis) or pasta, typically served with a stew of goat or beef (hilib). Pasta reflects the Italian colonial influence on southern Somalia that filtered north; you'll find spaghetti on menus in Hargeisa restaurants. Suqaar is a quick stir-fry of diced meat with onions and peppers, often eaten with rice or canjeero.
Canjeero (also called injera in its Ethiopian form) is the spongy sourdough flatbread that shows up at breakfast, usually with honey, ghee, or bean stew. It's cheap, filling, and good.
Shaah Soomaali — Somali spiced tea — is the social lubricant of daily life. It's sweet, milky, and flavoured with cardamom, cinnamon, and cloves. You'll be offered it constantly. Fresh camel milk is available in markets and worth trying if you get the chance.
In Berbera, fresh fish and grilled seafood are naturally the main attraction. Gulf of Aden fish — red snapper, kingfish, and various reef species — are usually cooked simply and are very good.
There is no alcohol anywhere in Somaliland.
Restaurants in Hargeisa range from basic canteens serving rice and stew for a dollar or two, to more established places that do grilled meats, pasta dishes, and juice. Food prices are low by almost any measure.