Zanzibar is officially Muslim and alcohol is not sold openly on the streets, but the tourist hotels and a handful of dedicated bars pour freely. The classic sundowner is at Africa House Hotel terrace on the Shangani waterfront — the old English Club, with a wraparound first-floor terrace that catches the sunset over the dhow harbour.
6 Degrees South, two doors along, is more modern: a tapas-style bar with the same view at a slightly higher price. Mercury's on Mizingani Road, named for the local hero, is the after-dinner option, with live music most evenings and tables on the seawall facing Forodhani. For coffee and breakfast, head to Stone Town Cafe near Christ Church or Mercury's in the morning before it switches to evening trade.
Local Konyagi (sugarcane gin) and Kilimanjaro beer are the staples; a small selection of South African wines is available at the better restaurants.