Darajani is where Stone Town actually shops. The covered hall sits at the eastern edge of the old town on Creek Road, marking the boundary between Stone Town proper and the Ng'ambo side of the city. Inside, the layout is roughly logical — fish on the seaward side, meat in the middle, vegetables and spices along the back — and entirely overwhelming on first arrival.
This is the place to buy spices: cardamom, cloves, vanilla pods, ginger, the saffron-coloured curry mixes that go into Swahili pilau. Vendors will let you smell anything before you buy. Prices are not high but they are negotiable, and they will be higher for you than for the woman behind you; aim for half the first offer. Mornings before 10 am are the busiest and the freshest. Watch your bag.