Across the lake at Agbodrafo stands a low, dark, two-storey colonial house: Woold Homé, the home of the 18th-century British slave trader John Henry Wood. The building is small and seemingly unremarkable from the outside, but its cellar — a windowless chamber a metre below ground — held captured Africans, often for weeks, before they were marched to the coast and shipped across the Atlantic.
A small museum and memorial occupy the building today, with displays in French explaining the slave trade in this part of the bight of Benin and the role Agbodrafo and Togoville played in it. A visit takes thirty minutes and is unsentimental in a way that makes it more affecting. Reach it by pirogue across the lake or by car on the coast road; the journey from Togoville takes around twenty minutes either way.