Tunisian food is one of the best reasons to be here. The coast means excellent fish, and the local cuisine relies on a distinctive North African spice palette — harissa (hot pepper paste), cumin, coriander, and preserved lemon — that distinguishes it sharply from both European and Middle Eastern cooking. Start a meal with a bowl of chorba (thick tomato soup with noodles and lamb), work through couscous or grilled fish, and finish with makroudh — syrup-soaked semolina pastries stuffed with dates.
The independent restaurants near the Medina are a better bet than the hotel restaurants for Tunisian food. Chez Achour has had a long-standing reputation for fish and local dishes; the kitchen is reliable and the staff speak several languages. For the real experience, look for places where the menu is written only in Arabic — the food will usually be better and cheaper.