Kampala's bar and cafe scene is livelier than you might expect. The Kololo and Nakasero neighbourhoods are where most of the better places concentrate — a string of bars, rooftop terraces, and open-air restaurants that fill up in the evening with a mix of expats, NGO workers, and Kampala's growing middle class. Kabalagala (known locally as the "red-light strip," though the name understates its range) is the main nightlife district, with bars and clubs staying open well past midnight.
For a quieter drink, the garden bars around the golf course and the leafy streets of Kololo offer a more relaxed atmosphere. Bell Lager and Nile Special are the local beers; waragi (Ugandan gin, usually drunk mixed) is the local spirit of choice.