Afghan cuisine is hearty, aromatic and built around rice, bread and grilled meat. It shares DNA with Persian, Central Asian and Indian cooking but has its own distinct character.
Kabuli pulao is the national dish -- long-grain rice cooked with lamb, raisins, carrots and almonds, often flavored with cardamom. Every family has its own recipe, and it is the centerpiece of any celebration.
Mantu are steamed dumplings filled with spiced ground meat and onions, topped with a tomato-based sauce and yogurt. They are labor-intensive to make and usually reserved for special occasions or guests.
Ashak are similar to mantu but filled with leeks and served with meat sauce and yogurt. A specialty of Kabul.
Bolani is a stuffed flatbread filled with potatoes, leeks or pumpkin, fried crisp on a griddle. It is street food at its best -- cheap, filling and available everywhere.
Kebabs are grilled over charcoal in every bazaar and roadside stall. Lamb and chicken are most common. Chapli kebab, a spiced minced meat patty originally from the Pashtun regions, is particularly good.
Bread is essential to every meal. Afghan naan -- large, oblong flatbreads baked in tandoor ovens -- is freshly made throughout the day. Tearing off pieces to scoop up food is the standard way to eat.
Tea is served constantly. Green tea is preferred in the north and Kabul, black tea in the south and east. It comes sweet and strong, often flavored with cardamom.
Fruit is Afghanistan's glory. The pomegranates, grapes, melons, mulberries and apricots are among the best in the world. Dried fruits and nuts -- almonds, pistachios, raisins -- are served with tea and sold in every bazaar.