Bhutan has a population of roughly 780,000, making it one of the least populated countries in Asia. The Bhutanese are a warm and hospitable people, though more reserved than their South Asian neighbours. Wherever you go, you will be greeted with courtesy and genuine curiosity.
The population divides broadly into three ethnic groups. The Ngalongs of the western valleys are of Tibetan origin and have historically dominated politics and religion. The Sharchops of the east are believed to be the earliest inhabitants, with roots that may stretch back to Southeast Asia. The Lhotshampas of the south are of Nepali descent and arrived in the late 19th century -- their relationship with the Bhutanese state has been complicated and sometimes painful, with large-scale displacement in the 1990s that remains a sensitive topic.
In the high northern reaches, semi-nomadic yak herders live above 3,000 metres, spending most of the year in black yak-hair tents and migrating with their animals between summer and winter pastures. Their way of life is slowly changing as roads reach further into the mountains.
Bhutanese people wear their traditional dress daily, not just for special occasions. The gho -- a knee-length robe for men, belted at the waist to create a pouch -- and the kira -- an ankle-length dress for women, fastened with silver brooches -- are required in schools, government offices, dzongs, and most public spaces. The dress code is a source of genuine pride, not just regulation.
Buddhism pervades every aspect of daily life. Prayer flags flutter on every mountain pass, prayer wheels spin in every village, and most families send at least one son to study in a monastery. The Bhutanese approach to development -- the famous Gross National Happiness philosophy -- is not just a slogan but a real policy framework that prioritises cultural preservation, environmental conservation, and equitable development alongside economic growth.
English is widely spoken in towns, especially by younger Bhutanese who are educated in English-medium schools. But step off the highway into a village, and you may need your guide to translate from Dzongkha or one of the dozen regional dialects.