Bhutan is the last great Himalayan kingdom, a country the size of Switzerland wedged between India and Tibet where Gross National Happiness is official policy and television arrived only in 1999. It is one of the most tightly controlled tourism destinations on earth, and that is exactly what makes it extraordinary.
The landscape ranges from steamy subtropical jungle in the south to 7,000-metre peaks along the Tibetan border, with most of the population living in a handful of valleys in between. Forests cover more than 70% of the country -- the constitution requires it -- and the air quality is staggering. You will see more prayer flags than power lines.
Most visitors follow the western circuit: flying into Paro, spending time in the capital Thimphu, and driving over the Dochula Pass to Punakha and Wangdiphodrang. This is enough for a week and covers the country's most famous sights, including the Tiger's Nest monastery. Those with more time push east through Bumthang and Tashigang, where the roads get rougher, the valleys narrower, and the experience far more remote.
Bhutan is not cheap. The Sustainable Development Fee of $100 per night is a deliberate filter, and on top of that you will pay for a guide, accommodation, transport, and food. Independent backpacking is not really possible -- you must book through a licensed tour operator or approved hotel. But what you get for that money is remarkable: a country with almost no litter, no beggars, no mass tourism, and an ancient Buddhist culture that is genuinely intact rather than performed for visitors.
The Bhutanese are warm and welcoming, though reserved at first. Dzongkha is the national language, but English is widely spoken in towns and by anyone working in tourism. The national dress -- the knee-length gho for men and ankle-length kira for women -- is worn daily, not just for festivals.
Come prepared for winding mountain roads, limited internet outside the main towns, and food that is heavier on chili and cheese than you might expect. Come also prepared to be genuinely moved. There are very few places left in the world like this.
