A small bar and bistro on Baochao Hutong in the Gulou district, fitted out in a faded 1920s Shanghai style — chandeliers, dark wood, vintage mirrors — that has made it one of the longest-surviving independent venues in the northern hutongs. Spanish-leaning tapas and absinthe share the menu with live jazz, swing, and tango nights, and there are occasional dance classes upstairs.
It captures the character of the Gulou scene better than the slicker newer openings: cramped, atmospheric, and run by people who clearly care about the place. Best on a live-music evening; check the schedule, as the small room fills quickly.