Xinghua rice noodles are the defining food of Putian, a hand-pressed noodle of exceptional fineness that cooks almost instantly and absorbs flavour readily. They are served in a bone broth enriched with dried seafood, topped with oysters, shrimps, sliced pork, and green vegetables, in a combination that is simultaneously filling and light. The noodles are produced in Putian county and sold across Fujian, but the best versions are eaten in the city itself, where the broth is made from local ingredients and the noodles are freshest.
Noodle shops serving Xinghua noodles are concentrated in the street-food areas around the central market and in the older residential neighbourhoods behind the main commercial streets. They operate from early morning through lunchtime primarily — this is breakfast food as much as a lunch dish. Prices are low by any standard. Look for shops where the noodles are made in-house and where the broth simmers visibly on large gas burners.