The Li River cruise is the centrepiece of any visit to Guilin. Boats leave from Zhujiang Pier (about 25 km south of the city, reached by bus or taxi) and travel 83 km downriver to Yangshuo over four to six hours, passing through the finest of the karst scenery. The route takes in peaks with names like Crown Cave, Nine Horse Fresco Hill, and Yellow Cloth Shoal — a flat sandbar where the reflections of the mountains in the river are so perfect you can barely tell which way is up.
Official cruise boats are large and comfortable with restaurants on board. Budget travellers sometimes take the public ferry, which is slower and cheaper. Arriving in Yangshuo and making your own way back (by bus or hired bicycle) is the better plan — it leaves you time to explore the town and the surrounding countryside rather than being herded straight back to Guilin.