Dragon Pavilion

Dragon Pavilion occupies the site of the Northern Song imperial palace on a raised platform at the centre of Kaifeng. The current building is a Qing-dynasty structure, not a Song survivor, but it commands the same view over the city that Song emperors once enjoyed, and it's flanked by two artificial lakes — Pan Lake to the west and Yang Lake to the east — that give the complex a surprisingly grand, watery setting. Colourful willows and lotus plantings make the lakeside walk one of the more pleasant strolls in the city.

The park is large and takes a couple of hours to walk properly. Beyond the main pavilion, the grounds contain several smaller halls, pavilions, and gardens, as well as exhibition spaces covering the site's Song dynasty history. Entry is ¥50. The best time to visit is late afternoon, when the light comes from the west and turns the lake surface golden; the morning can be hazy. The pavilion's position is a deliberate echo of the Song palace: you enter from the south, walk a processional route, and arrive at a building that still commands the city's skyline.

things to do sight
A story
The site of the Dragon Pavilion was once the heart of the largest city on earth. The Song imperial palace complex occupied this ground for 167 years, from 960 to 1127 CE, housing a court of extraordinary cultural sophistication whose painters, poets, and craftspeople defined Chinese aesthetic standards for centuries. When the Jin dynasty armies sacked Kaifeng in 1127, they carried away the entire Song imperial family as prisoners — an event the Chinese know as the Jingkang Incident — and the palace was razed. The Qing pavilion you see today sits metres above the original Song foundations.