The Yangtze River cruise from Yichang to Chongqing — or the reverse — is one of the classic journeys in China, and Yichang is the natural starting point heading upstream. The three gorges themselves (Qutang, Wu, and Xiling) remain dramatic: sheer limestone walls rising 1,000 metres from the water, narrow channels, sudden weather changes, and the boat traffic that has moved through here for millennia. The gorges are shorter now — the dam raised water levels significantly — but the surviving walls of Wu Gorge in particular are still among the most impressive river scenery in the world.
Cruises range from budget passenger ferries (two nights, basic cabins) to expensive purpose-built cruise ships. The mid-range option — a simple cabin on a regular passenger ferry — gives you the scenery without the package-tour atmosphere and costs a fraction of the price. Four-day upstream journeys stop at Wanzhou and Fengjie; three-day downstream runs move faster. Book at least a day ahead during Chinese holidays. Yichang's passenger terminal is at Gezhouba, near the centre of the city.