Yichang
©
Yichang

Yichang

Yangtze River city at the gates of the Three Gorges and Three Gorges Dam.

Yichang is the city that sits at the gates of the Three Gorges. The dam is upstream, the gorges are upstream, and all the river cruise ships heading between Chongqing and the east pass through here. As a destination in its own right it is a functional, mid-sized Chinese city without great charm, but as a base for some of central China's most dramatic scenery it is indispensable.

The Three Gorges Dam (Sanxia Daba) is 30 kilometres west of the city centre. It is the largest hydroelectric dam in the world — the statistics are relentless and the engineers who built it are rightly proud — and the scale of the structure is genuinely impressive on the ground in a way that photographs cannot convey. The five-stage ship lock, which raises and lowers vessels some 113 metres over five chambers, is one of the engineering spectacles of the modern world. Entry to the dam observation areas is free, though the bus tour costs around ¥75. Allow a full morning.

The Yangtze River cruise from Yichang to Chongqing (or the reverse) is one of the classic journeys in China. The Three Gorges — Qutang, Wu, and Xiling — still exist and still impress, even if the water level has risen since the dam closed in 2003. The sheer limestone cliffs of Wu Gorge, with the hanging coffins of the ancient Ba people in the cliff faces, remain extraordinary. Cruises take three to four days and range from budget ferries to luxury ships. Yichang is the natural embarkation point going upriver.

Closer to the city, the Three Visitors Cave (Sanyou Dong) is a riverside limestone cavern where three Tang dynasty poets took shelter together in 819 AD and wrote poems on the walls. The cave is carved with inscriptions from every subsequent dynasty, making it a kind of layered literary monument. The views from the entrance toward the old defensive walls are also good.

Yichang connects easily to Wuhan by high-speed rail in about 90 minutes, and to Chongqing in around four and a half hours. Enshi is accessible by high-speed rail from Yichang in about two hours. Shennongjia is most easily reached from Yichang by bus or hired car.

Guide

Eating Out

Yichang sits at the boundary between Hubei cooking and the spicier traditions of the upper Yangtze, which means the food is better than the city's tourist-infrastructure profile might suggest. River fish is the local specialty: steamed carp with ginger and soy, or braised in the local style with dried chilli and Sichuan peppercorn. The streets around the old town and the waterfront area have the best concentration of local restaurants. Hot pot — Chongqing style, intensely spiced — has spread throughout the city.

The night market near the waterfront sets up in the evenings with stalls selling river snacks, grilled skewers, and cold dishes. Prices are very low by any standard; expect to pay ¥30–60 per person at a sit-down local restaurant. Avoid the tourist-oriented restaurants immediately adjacent to the ferry terminal, which cater to cruise groups and price accordingly.

Guide

Getting There

Yichang connects to Wuhan by high-speed train in about 90 minutes — the most common approach. The high-speed station is Yichang East, a few kilometres from the city centre; the older Yichang station in the downtown handles some slower regional services. Chongqing is around four and a half hours by high-speed rail. Enshi is about two hours west by high-speed train. Shennongjia is most easily reached from Yichang by bus or hired car.

Sanxia Airport handles domestic flights from Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou, and other major cities, making it possible to fly directly into Yichang rather than routing through Wuhan. The airport is about 30 kilometres from the city centre; a taxi costs around ¥100.

Guide

Things to Do

Yichang's main draws are downstream from the city: the Three Gorges Dam to the west and the Three Visitors Cave along the river. The city centre itself is pleasant enough without being exceptional. If you are using Yichang as a base for a Yangtze River cruise, allow at least a day to see the dam and the cave before departure.