The Battle of Changde in November-December 1943 was one of the most brutal urban battles of the Sino-Japanese War. A Japanese force of approximately 100,000 men besieged and fought through the city against a Chinese garrison determined to hold every street. The defenders were outnumbered roughly twelve to one. The battle lasted sixteen days; by the time Chinese relief forces retook the city, the garrison had been reduced from eight thousand to a few hundred survivors. The Japanese deployment of chemical weapons during the siege was documented extensively and remains part of the city's historical memory.
The memorial site in Changde includes a museum dedicated to the battle, with photographs, maps, weapons, and personal accounts. The exhibition presents the battle clearly and without melodrama — the facts are stark enough. The memorial is a sobering counterpoint to Changde's more pastoral literary attractions and worth two hours of anyone's time, particularly those with an interest in the often-overlooked Chinese theatres of World War II. Admission is free.