Yueyang Tower

Yueyang Tower stands on a promontory above the northwestern shore of Dongting Lake, a three-storey timber structure with yellow glazed tiles and upswept eaves presenting the classic Song-dynasty silhouette reproduced on countless Chinese postcards. The current tower dates from a Qing-dynasty reconstruction but follows the Song dimensions and layout precisely; fourteen successive towers have occupied this site since the 3rd century AD. Admission is ¥70.

The tower's cultural significance exceeds its architectural scale. Fan Zhongyan's 1046 essay made it a philosophical landmark; the phrase "first to bear the world's sorrows, last to enjoy its pleasures" became a definition of Confucian officialdom at its best, quoted by statesmen and reformers across the subsequent millennium. The view from the upper platform takes in the entire northern reach of Dongting Lake, with Junshan Island visible as a green low shape about 15 kilometres to the southwest. Below the tower, a waterfront promenade connects to the pier for Junshan Island boats.

things to do sight
A story
Fan Zhongyan's 1046 essay "Yueyang Tower" was written without its author ever visiting the tower. He composed it in response to a friend's renovation project, working from a painting of the view rather than personal experience. The essay became one of the most famous pieces of classical Chinese prose and ended with two sentences still quoted in Chinese political discourse today: "Be first to bear the hardships of the world; be last to enjoy its pleasures." Fan himself exemplified the sentiment — he spent much of his career in exile for speaking truth to emperors.