Shapotou occupies the place where the Tengger Desert meets the Yellow River, about 15 kilometres southwest of Zhongwei. The juxtaposition is the whole point: the dunes here are 100 metres high, pale gold, and slope almost directly into the river, with the irrigated green fields of the opposite bank visible across the water. It is a genuinely dramatic combination, and the landscape underneath the resort infrastructure is real and impressive.
The infrastructure itself is what you would expect of a major Chinese domestic attraction: entrance fees, golf carts, camel rides, sand skiing, inflatable raft crossings on the river on traditional sheepskin-bag rafts, hot air balloon rides, and a gondola crossing. All of this can be taken or left. What cannot be avoided is the scenery, which persists regardless of the crowds. Go as early in the morning as possible — before 8am the crowds are minimal and the light is better.
The sheepskin raft crossing — traditional inflatable boats made from sewn sheep skins, still used by locals — is the most worthwhile of the activities: a short crossing that puts you on the opposite bank for views of the dunes from the river level, then back. Admission to the park is around 100 yuan. A taxi from Zhongwei takes 20 minutes.