Chenlu Ancient Town

Chenlu Ancient Town sits on a mountain ridge in Yintai District, about fifteen kilometres southeast of Tongchuan's urban area. The town has been producing ceramics since the Tang Dynasty — over fourteen hundred years — and is still doing so: working kilns and craft workshops operate here alongside the preserved historic buildings. The old town's lanes are surfaced with ceramic waste — shards from failed firings pressed into the path surface — and the walls of houses incorporate decorative ceramic fragments, creating a built environment unlike anywhere else in China.

The combination of live craft production and historical preservation makes Chenlu more interesting than a purely museumified traditional town. You can watch potters throwing clay, see the wood-fired kilns used for certain types of production, and buy pieces directly from workshops at prices considerably below what you would pay in Xi'an. The town's green-glazed, black-glazed, and white-glazed wares continue the Yaozhou tradition in modified form.

things to do sight architecture
A story
Chenlu's streets are paved with broken ceramics. The paths and walls of the village incorporate generations of kiln failures, broken vessels, and production waste — shards of celadon, black-glazed stoneware, and white porcelain embedded in the clay and stone of every surface. The town is a walking museum of everything that didn't make it to market over fourteen centuries of production, and the effect is strange and beautiful: ordinary streets with extraordinary materials underfoot.