Larung Gar Buddhist Institute

Larung Gar — the Larung Five Sciences Buddhist Institute — sits in a narrow valley near Serta town, roughly 200 kilometres southeast of Aba. From a hillside above, it is a breathtaking sight: thousands of small red wooden cabins covering every inch of the valley slopes, home to monks, nuns, and students who have come from across the Tibetan world to study. It is one of the most important centres of Tibetan Buddhist learning, founded by the revered Khenchen Jigme Phuntsok in 1980.

Access has been variable over the years depending on political circumstances, and visitors should check current conditions before making the journey. When open to outsiders, the valley rewards extended exploration — the main temple, the debating courtyard, and the views over the red-roofed sea of cabins are unlike anything else in China.

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At its peak in the early 2000s, Larung Gar housed an estimated 10,000 monks, nuns, and lay students, making it probably the largest Buddhist academy in the world. Chinese authorities ordered demolitions in 2001 and again in 2016, reducing the community significantly. What remains is still one of the most extraordinary concentrations of Buddhist practice anywhere on earth.

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