Tianchi (Heavenly Lake)

Tianchi — Heavenly Lake — is the single best day trip from Ürümqi, and one of the most beautiful landscapes in Central Asia. The lake sits at 1,910 metres altitude in the Tian Shan range, 115 km east of the city, surrounded by dense spruce forest that gives way above to bare rock and permanent snow on the higher peaks. The water is the particular blue-green colour that glacial lakes share the world over, and it reflects the surrounding peaks on still mornings in a way that rewards arriving early.

The lake is accessible by organised tour or by public bus from Ürümqi (services operate in summer). Kazakh families set up yurts at the shore and rent them for overnight stays, which is by far the best way to experience Tianchi — arriving after the day-tour coaches have left, eating in the yurt, watching the alpenglow on the mountains, and waking to the lake in the early morning. The hike around the lake takes a few hours; more ambitious trails lead up to the ridgeline above. The site is a national park with an entrance fee. Go on a weekday if you possibly can.

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A story
The Kazakh nomads who summer around Tianchi with their livestock call the surrounding mountains by a name rooted in Tengri — the Turkic and Mongolian word for sky or heaven, the same root that gives the Tian Shan its Chinese name. The correspondence is not a coincidence: Chinese cartographers who named these mountains did so in conversation with peoples for whom the sky-god Tengri was the highest force in the universe. The lake and the mountains are a single idea expressed in two languages.

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