The Hump is a backpacker hostel just south of Jinma Biji Square whose rooftop bar has been the unofficial Yunnan-traveller gathering point for more than two decades. The name is a reference to "flying the Hump" — the wartime air route across the Himalayas from India to Kunming that supplied Chiang Kai-shek's Republic against the Japanese, which had its eastern terminus a few kilometres from here.
The bar runs cheap drinks, an English-language menu of standard backpacker fare, weekend live music, and a noticeboard that is still — improbably — a useful source of trekking partners for the Tiger Leaping Gorge and the Lugu Lake circuit. Open till late; reasonably priced food.