The lanes around the old town's northern market square come alive at dawn with vendors selling Naxi breakfast foods: mibaorou (glutinous rice with pork), fresh tofu griddled over charcoal, bowls of rice noodles in a pork broth, and buckwheat pancakes filled with egg and chilli sauce. This is where local Naxi families eat before the tourist rush starts. By nine in the morning the character changes completely; arrive early. A full breakfast here costs less than ¥20.